Art (and science) after the magic of bitterness in beer

by David Martín Rius

What’s behind that bitter taste that likes so much in beer?

It is not only an acquired taste, but the result of a fascinating chemical process that transforms the ingredients into the spark that balances the sweetness of the malt. Today’s theme: the isomerization of alpha acids in hops, that alchemy that gives us the characteristic bitterness in each sip.

Science hidden in an ingredient as simple as a hops cone

In essence, isomerization is a molecular transformation in which a similar structure is reorganized, maintaining the same atoms, but in a different configuration. When we talk about beer, we refer to how alpha acids present in hops flowers become iso acids, those compounds responsible for bitter sensation in our favorite glass.

The alpha acid content varies from one harvest to another, and that proportion is generally indicated in the hops package, that homemade brewers we review carefully – it is like the heart of the bitter taste in each lot.

Heat as the great catalyst for transformation

The main method for converting these alpha acids into its isomerized form is boiling. The more time the hops grains, the more isoacids will be generated, intensifying the bitterness. Many amateur brewer calculators, such as those used in Venezuela and beyond, use precise formulas to estimate this transformation and predict the amount of Ibus (bitterness units) in the final product.

But the story does not end in boiling. Isomerization can also occur at lower temperatures, although at a much lower rate. Factors such as altitude influence: in high places, water boils at lower temperatures, making the reaction less efficient and that brewers have to adjust their times and techniques.

Even after turning off the heat, if hops are added in the technique called whirlpool or soaking, there is still some capacity to transform alpha acids, although to a lesser extent, due to moderate temperatures. The speed with which this reaction decreases when lowering the temperature is remarkable, reaching only 10% of complete boiling efficiency to about 70 degrees Celsius.

Much more than just chemistry: the taste and perception of bitterness

Although most of the bitterness comes from iso acids, there is a sensory dimension that goes beyond simple chemistry. The perception of bitterness in a beer is modulated by different factors: the seriousness of the brew, the darkness of the malt and even the components of the water used in the recipe.

For example, a high density beer or with dark ingredients may need a higher level of bitterness so that the sensation is comparable to a lighter beer. Here the concept of bitterness relationship comes into play, which helps balance the sweet with the bitter in each style.

Much also has to do with water: its levels of sulfates and chlorides influence how we perceive the flavor in the tongue. And not to mention the aromatic oils of the hops, which are responsible for the delicate aromas that many producers invest great sums in preserving through Whirlpool and Dry Hopping techniques.

Not only the taste, but the complete experience of Beer Tasting is enriched with aromatic compounds, and recent studies indicate that the perception of bitterness can also be influenced by compounds that are released during Dry Hopping, without being related to isoacids.

The learning that every amateur brewer must take into account

Understanding how isomerization works allows brewers to adjust their cooking techniques and supply to maximize balance in their final product. Desde el momento en que añades los lúpulos al hervor, hasta el remojo en frío, cada paso influye en el carácter del amargor y aroma.

In addition, exploring environmental variables, such as altitude or temperature, can make a difference in home or artisanal breweries, opening the doors to creativity without limits in experimentation.

While science reveals new facets of hops and its compounds, brewers continue to learn to perfect that perfect balance that makes each beer a unique experience. The magic of bitterness, in short, is in details and in passion for understanding each phase of the process.

So, the next time you enjoy your favorite beer, think about all that chemical and artistic complexity behind, and what a wonderful discovery is that, in the simplicity of a pint, so many secrets are hidden.

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