When the brewery with a motorcycle sole crashed in Berlin

by David Martín Rius

An unusual day in Berlin

Imagine a brilliant day in Berlin, where a group of journalists meet before a brick building that seems taken from a movie of yesteryear. In front, as if it were a modern mural, a tower of bottle of German beers stands. From afar, the scene could have been part of a beer party, but something peculiar was about to happen: the arrival of Stone Brewing co-founder, Greg Koch, at the wheel of a forklift. Why a forklift? Because, of course, it was time to revolutionize a millenary beer legacy, and what better way than with a giant rock.

The new beer approach

With a dramatic gesture, Koch dropped the rock on the pyramid of beers, symbolizing his intention to break with the established. Stone Brewing, a rebel brewery from San Diego, had decided to disembark in Berlin, offering his rich handmade beer experience to a country he considered stagnant. However, his statement that the Germans needed a lesson on how to make beer was, at least, provocative.

Unraveling the mystery of beer culture

Greg sees Germany as a photograph of the United States in the ’90s: dominated by industrial and little innovative beer. He threw himself into adventure with the intention of laying his knowledge about artisanal beers and innovations in the Californian style. But was Germany the right market? Time would say no, considering that the love for US IPAS was not so much a burning desire, but a trend that might not have fit the traditionally more conservative palate of the average German.

The stumbling blocks of arrogance

As the story develops, Koch wrote a post in his blog that, in itself, is a testimony of denial. His article, entitled ‘Goodbye Stone Brewing Berlin: too big, too bold, too soon,’ he tells how he underestimated the local market. In his comment, he introduces himself as a hero, stating that, having started small, they could have succeeded. But the path of arrogance is often treacherous, and Koch is now in a maze of his own creation.

New reflections and directions

With Brewdog now taking control of the building that housed Koch’s hopes, the future is full of unknowns. Will they learn from Stone’s mistakes or will the same arrogant narrative repeat? It is more than likely that the key to success lies in an approach that respects the rich German beer culture, instead of trying to impose itself strongly. If they had only built a bridge between the two cultures … maybe today we would not be talking about a failure, but of a beloved beer icon in Berlin.

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